六和塔上听潮声（杭州西湖游记九）
在许多文人的墨迹中，我们经常会看到杭州六和塔的名字，书剑恩仇录中，红花会四当家的被清军俘获，从西北大漠押送到杭州城，就曾被关押在六和塔内。红花会的弟兄们在塔内与大清鹰犬搏杀中，突然发现在地动山摇的海浪声中，遮天蔽月的钱塘江大潮如一条银色的巨龙，山呼海啸般从海边向六和塔翻滚而来，大有一口吞下群山万壑的气势。
金庸原本就是杭州人，是大诗人徐志摩的表弟，他的父亲在中共建国初期的镇反中被无辜杀掉，此时的金庸正远避香港，留下一条小命，后来成为武侠小说的最高写手，他的&飞雪连天射白鹿，笑书神侠倚碧鸳&无疑是一个时代的高峰，没人可以逾越。其实，与金庸同时代的另一个大名鼎鼎的武侠小说写手梁羽生，也有着超一流的水平，只不过两人之间，我更喜欢金庸的风格而已。
梁羽生的祖上原是广西蒙山县的望族，土地革命时，他正在外地读书，捧着家里一份十万火急的求救信函，星夜赶回，路遇同学，被告知父亲刚刚被暴民打死，家中财产已被共产党人全部掠走，此刻回去，正是羊入虎口。梁羽生惊得一身冷汗，几经辗转，终于逃到台湾。
试想一下，如果这两个卓具才华的少年都在父母身边，他们头顶&黑五类狗崽子&的高帽，在歧视和白眼的氛围中成长，在不可越雷池一步的禁锢环境中写作。我敢断言，中国武侠小说绝不会有今天的水平，不是在清朝末年的水平上徘徊不前，就是躺在红色铁拳下痛苦呻吟。
我不知道金庸年少时，有没有亲眼目睹过钱江大潮。他在书剑恩仇录中关于大潮涌来之时的描述，真可谓精美绝伦，令人读过如同身临其境一般。以至于，我在读过大师的那本武侠宝典之后，常常望着近在咫尺的月亮发呆，住着美女嫦娥的那个圆球，为什么只对杭州湾的那条大江情有独钟，每年的八月十五都会给那里的人们送一道亘古不变的水上大餐？而我见过的无数条大江，与我人生密不可分的几条小河，就从来没有过这等好事？
水浒传中真正具有传奇色彩的几个人物，或许真的与钱塘江上的六和塔有过万缕千丝的渊源。武松原本山东武清县的一个小捕头，因怒杀大哥的老婆潘金莲，打死西门庆，服刑的途中，受人唆使，醉打蒋门神，又因奸人陷害，盛怒之下，血洗鸳鸯楼，走投无路，最后上了梁山。
我对武松的印象一直不敢恭维，一条鲁莽的汉子，杀人不眨眼的刀客，血溅鸳鸯楼时，一个活口都不曾留下，就连平日对他含情脉脉的女子，也一刀将其毙命。究竟有没有景阳冈打虎的故事暂且不说，反正记得在我小的时候，在乡村看戏，戏的名字早已淡忘，好像就十字坡。十字坡小黑点女老板孙二娘背着假装被迷魂药麻到的武松，一边在戏台上转悠，一边唱到：&孙二娘背着武松走，只觉得身后硬撅撅，没成想人死吊还活。&可见这武松并非什么好饼，生死关头还在想着吃人家美女老板的水豆腐。
武松跟随宋江大哥被朝廷招安后，一路南下，来到杭州城，对真正的农民起义首领方腊大打出手。此时的梁山一百零八条好汉早已成了朝廷的走狗，镇压群众诉求的刽子手。被抽掉了脊梁，丧失了替天行道的底气，宋江的不义之师损兵折将，一败涂地，就连勇冠三军的武老二都被砍下一条隔壁。据说，独臂武松并没有与宋江大哥班师回朝，而是随了大和尚鲁智深在六和塔附近当起了真正的道士。
前几年，我在西冷桥边曾经看见过武二郎的坟墓，&宋义士武松之墓&几个大字熠熠生辉，光彩照人，牌坊两边的石柱上刻着一副文气十足的楹联，&失意且伍豪客，得时亦英公。&
武松虽然是个强盗，与西湖的雅致风马牛毫无瓜葛，但是他坟前的游人，与近在咫尺的鉴湖女侠秋瑾和才女苏小小相比，人气指数居高不下。武松墓前合影留念的游人络绎不绝，而秋瑾和小小的墓前却相对冷清了许多。我觉得当年杭州市领导在遵照毛主席的指示，把西湖边上所有名人坟墓迁走，所有的牌坊推倒销毁，本身就是一个地地道道的混蛋逻辑。而后，为了从杭州旅游经济考量，把一部分鬼魂迁回时，在对象的选择上也有太经济功利的色彩，那些在辛亥革命中叱咤风云的英烈都依然被长久地丢弃在深山老林里，而让武二郎这样杀人越货，镇压农民起义的刽子手，也来西湖占了一席之地，真是有点天理不容的感觉。
在水浒传的英雄谱中，我对鲁智深的印象一直不坏，当年，还是政府官员的鲁达，三拳打死镇关西，那纯粹的路见不平拔刀相助的英雄壮举。做了和尚的鲁智深救林冲于野猪林，那是哥儿们的一片真情。只是这鲁大和尚为了情义二字，不得不跟着宋江那个卑鄙的小人受朝廷招安，风尘仆仆来到杭州。眼见得自家兄弟死的死，亡的亡，鸟兽散去，独自一人，来到钱塘江边月轮山的一座寺庙内闭门思过。在一个月白风高，水天共碧夜晚，熟睡中的鲁智深突然听见江潮如鼓，以为强敌追杀至此，摸了禅杖打杀出来，被众僧围了，告诉他此乃江潮之声，鲁智深听罢，猛然想起了当年师父给他的偈语：听潮而圆，就在寺里坐化了。
传说，八十万禁军教头林冲或许也是在这六和塔了却终生的。在所有的水泊梁山一百单八将中，我最为欣赏和同情的人物就是这个林冲，他武艺高强，为人正直，颇具内敛，是一个典型的高大全式的英雄形象。原本衣食无忧，家庭和睦，幸福美满的林教头，只因爱妻被辱，强权的陷害，走投无路，只好落草为寇。每每听到京剧《夜奔》中的那段唱词：&丈夫有泪不轻弹，只是不到伤心处&，便有泪水连连，呜咽不已的冲动。
林冲在与方腊军队血战中身负重伤，以他和鲁智深的刎颈之交，被鲁智深带到六和塔也是理所当然的事情，万念俱灰的一代英豪，随了鲁智深披上一身的袈裟也不是比可能的事情，只是没有史料记载，我不便更多的揣摩。林冲，鲁智深，武松这些水浒传中，响当当的北方汉子，能够在这温润的江南，找到如此潮退潮涨，风涛激荡的地方长眠，也许是天地的造化，冥冥之中的安排。
六和塔高高地屹立在钱塘江畔的月轮山上，是吴越王为镇钱塘江潮而建，登塔俯瞰，钱塘风光尽收眼底。在中国，有许多历史古城都是以佛塔来作为地标形象的，而杭州的六和塔尤其具有代表性。六和塔的名字取佛教中的六合之意，蕴藉了天地人和的至高境界，让吉祥涵山纳海，让亲和包容万物。精巧壮美的古建筑，丰富多彩的历史沉淀，西湖与钱塘江的衬托，让六和塔的光辉早已普照天地，名扬四海。
我在去绍兴、去千岛湖的路上曾多次在车里仰视过的六和塔风姿，塔身高耸，各层飞檐翘角上都挂着偌大的铁铃铛，随风摇曳，甚是壮观。据说，现在的六和塔基本保持着南宋时代的特色，古朴巍峨，黛瓦红墙，是我国砖木结构建筑中上乘的珍品。据说，站在高塔的顶端，江上游船，对岸的高楼，苍郁的群山都会尽收眼底，钱江大桥长虹卧波，无限风光一览无遗。
离六和塔最近的钱塘江大桥，是我国当代著名的桥梁专家茅以升在上世纪三十年代的杰作。这个具有里程碑式的作品是一个特殊时代的历史产物，当年，为了阻止日寇从上海进犯杭州，全桥开通仅一个月零六天就自行砸毁了。抗战胜利后，大桥重新修建，茅以升的铜像和大桥一起成为一段历史铭心刻骨的记忆。
六和塔的月轮山，海宁的盐官镇都是观看钱塘江大潮的最佳领地，钱塘江的潮曾吸引过多少男儿朝拜的步履，牵动过多少钟情女子妩媚的眼神。钱塘江的上游本是一条普普通通的河流，只是这条河流越接近大海的怀抱，越加的豪放宽阔，形成了一个大大的喇叭口。每当日月之手牵着浩瀚的海水向钱塘江倒灌之时，水道越来越窄，水浪越来越高，最后竟然如同一面横越江面的高墙，排山倒海般的涌来，那是上帝的杰作，宇宙的奇观。
很多身临其境的人向我一次次地描述过，钱塘江大潮的奇妙之处在于，最初的潮头仅仅似一条银色的弧线，继而玉城雪岭，声如雷霆，吞天沃日。潮头落下，如雪山倾倒，化作漫天花雨。倒退的海浪，与后面涌来的海潮叠加相撞，一浪高过一浪，反反复复，推波助澜，天地万物都会裹挟其中，何况我等凡夫俗子，如何能配得起其中的一朵浪花。年年岁岁，不知有多少观潮的人儿被卷进大海，枉做了鱼鳖虾蟹的一道小菜。
我经常会异想天开，那些被钱塘大潮卷走的人儿，或许与这海潮的故事有着某种牵连。相传春秋时代，吴国第一忠臣伍子胥被昏君吴王所杀，抛尸于钱塘江中，此后，每到八月十五月圆之日，满头白发的伍子胥就会乘着素车白马而来，站在潮头上慷慨悲歌，恨不能将那昏庸的吴王也能鞭尸三日。如此这般，当年凡是与他有过不悦的小人，在转世投胎之后，冥冥中走向这钱塘之畔，一个不小心撞到这嫉恶如仇的伍子胥，不被拖入到这滚滚的江潮之中，那才是人间怪事。
随着历史的脚步渐渐远去，或许伍子胥大仇已报，或许这人间的仇恨早已被无所不在的风花雪月所吞没，钱塘江大潮慢慢开始和谐了。实际上，钱塘大潮逐渐平和的主要原因，主要是因为人们盲目的在澉浦以西围垦海涂，使上游的河道逐渐变窄，河床抬高，江道南移。这样，每当海潮涌进钱塘江时，由于流路加长，潮的能量消耗过大，当海潮达到盐官镇时就已经是强弩之末，今天的人们再也看不到金庸笔下的那种钱塘大潮的恢宏气势。
自一九三七年钱塘江上第一座大桥通车，直至1991建成钱江第二座大桥，长达半个世纪，人和自然基本保持着和谐的关系。如今，大跃进式的经济崛起，不顾自然和生态的快速发展，早已将九百六十公里的锦绣江山冲击的七零八落。短短的时日，钱塘江上一座又一座的新的桥梁横空出世。真不知道这些大桥将会给杭州湾的自然环境带来怎样的影响，如此疯狂运转的超级生活方式真的会给人类的心灵带来永久的美感吗，与千年前的那种日出而耕，日落儿息，草翠花香，溪水奔流，鸟儿天空飞翔，鱼儿浅底嬉戏，獐狍野鹿就在身边，心灵中充满等候的期盼，一直于相思煎熬，欲说又羞的意境真的有着里程碑式的进步吗？待到人类将上帝留下的生命的全部资源消耗殆尽的时候，我敢断言，那时，我们子孙，所有的反思都会集中在我罗列的那几个最基本问题之上。可是，到了那个时候，一切都是亡羊补牢，我们所有的名誉将被我们的子孙送进万劫不复的深渊。
杭州湾为我国东部沿海钱塘江口延伸的河口地带，正处于东亚---澳大利亚候鸟迁徙路线上的中间位置，是重要的鸟类迁徙的停歇地和越冬地。鸟类是湿地生态系统中最活跃、最引人注目的居民，在湿地能量流动和维持生态系统的稳定方面发挥着举足轻重的作用。钱塘江边上过去曾经有过三个水鸟区，这里曾被誉为&湿地水鸟的乐园。&曾经栖息过的各类水鸟共有一百多种，其中的朱鹤、东方白鹤、都是国家一级重点保护动物。
随着围垦，房地产开发，无休止的桥梁建设，水鸟地盘被无耻的人类一点点地被蚕食和剥夺，只在钱江七桥附近为它们苟延馋喘般地留下了一小块硕果仅存的栖息领地。在预计的钱塘十座大桥全部竣工之日，或许正是杭州湾最后一块&水鸟的乐园&彻底消失之日。或许，真的有一天，这曾经的自然之肺被无限发展的癌细胞彻底的吞没，水鸟不在，只剩下干枯的标本，钱塘江的大潮已经成为历史的记忆。
&&&&&&未完待续，图片来自网络，谢过。
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